A Spiritually Scented Odyssey

Welcome to the second part of my series Scentrified Interviews, where I explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence. Happy reading!

In the bustling streets of Paris, nestled among the city's iconic fashion houses and cafes, there's a fragrance boutique that stands out from the rest. Spiritum Paris, born from the remnants of a life-changing spiritual trip, has quickly gained a following, with its unique fragrances and sustainable ethos, leaving an indelible mark in the perfume industry. I recently had the pleasure of sitting down with Jonathan Dufour, the visionary founder of the brand that weaves together the mysticism of a shamanic retreat in Peru with the artistry of scent creation. 

Jonathan's journey to creating his own brand was anything but conventional. With a background working for other perfume brands, he found himself at a crossroads in life, yearning for something more profound.

"I needed to heal and regain my spiritual powers."

This feeling led him to embark on a transformative shamanic retreat in Peru. It was during this trip, surrounded by scents of sandalwood, incense, and sage, that the seeds of inspiration for Spiritum were sown.

Upon returning from his experience in South America, which he describes as filled with inner healing, Jonathan decided to channel the spiritual guidance he had received into creating his own brand. In 2022, he launched Spiritum, and within just a year, the doors of his perfume boutique opened in the heart of Paris. The boutique's success speaks volumes about the captivating fragrances, and according to Jonathan, a remarkable two-thirds of shoppers leave with a product in hand.

Spiritum Paris is not your typical French fragrance house. Instead, it's a place where spirituality and scent converge. Jonathan has introduced a first series of fragrances based on numerology (numbers 1 through 9), perfumes that harmonize with individual personalities. 

“I actually have another 10 fragrances to launch in the future.”

The brand has already found its way into the hearts of fragrance enthusiasts in France, US (online for now), and in Romania (the brand’s top 3 markets so far). For those who don’t know the brand at all, Jonathan recommends the latest addition – Shamanism – a blend of floral, citrusy, woody, ambery, and musky notes that transport you to a mystical realm. On most days, it’s this scent that he himself chooses to wear. 

“I have five favorite perfumers, so I called some of them and asked if they wanted to work with me.” 

To bring his unique vision to life, Jonathan has enlisted the talents of renowned perfumers Bertrand Duchafour and Philippe Paparella-Paris. Their collaboration has resulted in some quite unique and unconventional scents. The brand owner’s plans doesn't stop at his Parisian boutique. He is already dreaming about opening a shop in New York, and perhaps even Tokyo in the future. No matter where the brand takes him, it’s clear that his fragrances have the potential to enchant hearts and senses worldwide.

My photos of the discovery kit with numbers 1 through 9, and my bottle of Final Spirit (Nr 9).

Jonathan also gave me a sneak peek into what's to come. The upcoming collection, featuring the three master numbers – 11, 22, and 33 – will launch at the end of this year. One is centered around fresh orange blossom, one is a crisp leather, and the last a sweet patchouli (my personal favorite!). Each of them promises to be a spiritual journey of its own.

Lastly, Jonathan's beautiful commitment to sustainability extends to his packaging. He proudly shares that his brand uses no plastic and opts for eco-friendly packaging made from cork, sourced from Spain and Portugal, held together with sugar cane tape. It's a clear reflection of his dedication to both the Earth and the spiritual essence that his brand represents.

In a world of mass-produced and boring fragrances, Spiritum Paris offers a lovely blend of spirituality, sustainability, and magical scents – a testament to the power of following one's heart and intuition in both fragrance and life. It's a journey that continues to evolve, leaving us all eagerly anticipating what's next in this fragrant odyssey.

3 rapid fire questions with Jonathan Dufour:

1. Favorite note(s) in a perfume?
   Sandalwood

2. Best fragrance to use in Paris?
   Shamanism, by Spiritum Paris

3. One of your favorite brands/scents:
   Not a Perfume, by Juliette Has a Gun

Find the physical boutique in Paris, where you can also smell the brand’s candles. 

Address: 
36 Rue Jacob
75006 Paris

Happy shopping! And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and Spiritum on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique, brand or perhaps yourself on the blog? Write me an email and let’s talk!

Visiting Embassy Niche Perfumery

Welcome to the first part in a series I’m calling Scentrified Interviews, where I will explore the stories, inspirations, and dreams of owners of perfume boutiques and brands, people who have truly dedicated their life to the pursuit of scentual excellence.

So let’s start by embarking on an olfactory journey with the passionate owner of a charming Portuguese perfume boutique. In this exclusive interview, I delve deep into the Lisbon boutique that has captivated the hearts and noses of Portuguese and international perfume lovers alike. Read on to discover the secrets behind curating a unique collection of perfumes and gain insights into the fascinating world of niche fragrances. 

“We want to democratize niche perfumery and showcase the best.”

Embassy Niche Perfumery opened its doors in December of 2016, just a few days before Christmas. And they started out small, with brands like Rania J, Stephane Humbert Lucas and Andy Tauer. They mainly stock “the niche of the niche”, as owner Ricardo Claudino calls it, and always aim to find brands with a specific DNA, and from many different countries. There are of course a couple of bigger brands too. 

“We don’t need to be on the biggest streets where everyone is walking, because not everyone is interested in niche perfumes to begin with.”

It won’t matter if you’re living in Lisbon, or if you’re just visiting. Embassy truly isn’t hard to find, located just a few steps away from the city’s most luxurious shopping street Avenida de Liberdade. Perhaps this is where you’ll find yourself when your traveling companion wants to visit a museum you don’t find all that interesting? 

“Our mission has always been to show Portugal what niche perfume can be. We don’t go for the biggest and most expensive brands, but try to have a good mix of brands that are sometimes harder to find.”

Niche perfumery in Portugal is still somewhat new, and has recently started growing. Ricardo mentions that they stocked the British brand BeauFort London in the beginning, but those fragrances were a little too complex and challenging for an audience that was just beginning to understand that there’s a world outside of what you’d find at at department store or in the duty free section of an airport. 

“But they’re ready for it now! I think BeauFort would work if we started stocking them again. The market has changed so much in the last couple of years.”

Curiosity for niche and indie perfumery in Portugal seems to have started in specific Facebook groups, and then grown from there. The covid pandemic also helped, as many started their scented journeys when they were stuck at home with nothing else to do. 

Ricardo himself started his career as a model, and frequently traveled to Milan, where he would discover the many varied perfume boutiques. He then worked with luxury brands and boutiques in Lisbon, where he gained deeper insights about the industry. 

Ricardo felt like there was a big opportunity to do something within the niche market when he opened Embassy. He explains that they like communication, and love getting to know their customers. “Without them, we are nothing. They are our boss!” he adds, with a smile.

“Without them, we are nothing.”

A typical Portuguese person interested in perfume wants big performance, projection, longevity. They like something that lasts, preferably all day long. Some people still seem to believe that perfume is a female interest, something to do with make-up and beauty, but Embassy can easily prove them wrong, as the majority of their clients are actually men. And most of them like sweet, fruity and gourmand scents. “Opulent stuff with lots of sillage”, says Ricardo.

And customers from all over the world seem to love Embassy. Not long ago they received an award from renowned Spanish magazine Beautyprof, proclaiming them as the best and finest international niche perfumery of 2023.

“It feels amazing that so many important people from the industry voted for us, it’s an indication we’re doing something right.” 

3 rapid fire questions with Ricardo Claudino:

1. Favorite note(s) in a perfume?
   Tobacco, bergamot, nutmeg

2. Best fragrance for summer in Lisbon?
   Torino21 by Xerjoff

3. What’s a smell you can’t stand?
   Rhubarb and licorice

At the moment of writing, Embassy stocks almost 40 brands. Some of these include Ramon Monegal, Francesca Bianchi, Born to Stand Out, Clive Christian, Profumum Roma, Les Indémodables, and Baruti. For a full list, head over to their website. As of September, they are also offering a sample service, any 5 samples of 2ml each, for the low price of €30. 

The success has encouraged Ricardo to open another Embassy boutique, this time in the northern city of Porto. The brands offered there will vary slightly from what is currently offered in Lisbon. Ricardo also runs a Xerjoff Boutique next door from Embassy in Lisbon. This store offers exclusively Xerjoff perfumes, also worth a visit if you’re already heading to Embassy. 

Lisbon boutique: 
Rua Rodrigues Sampaio 112 C

Porto boutique:  (opening in december 2023)
Rua de Ceuta 17

Happy shopping! And don’t forget to follow me (@scentrified) and Embassy on Instagram!

PS. Would you like to see your boutique/brand on the blog? Write me an email and let’s talk!

Interview with Matiere Premiere at Skinlife

A little while ago I had the honor of attending a Q&A at Skinlife in Lisbon, with Aurelien Guichard and Cédric Meiffret, two of the three founders of the perfume brand Matiere Premiere. 

If you’re not already familiar with the brand, they are quite popular lately and currently have 11 fragrances, one being a Harrods exclusive. My own favorites from the line are Encens Suave, Falcon Leather and Parisian Musc. And to my own surprise, I am not totally opposed to their immensely popular rose scent, Radical Rose. A couple of these will be touched upon in the interview below, so please keep reading to find out more about this special fragrance house. 

“If someone stops you in the street and asks what perfume you’re wearing, then I’ve done a good job.”

Matiere Premiere was founded in 2019. Previously, Aurelien had worked many years for Narciso Rodriguez, who as most people know, is obsessed with musks. So when Aurelien would later create Matiere’s own musk, he wanted to make something different. He went looking for woody notes, ended up using cedar wood oil, and then topped it off with a green leaf note to amplify the vegetal parts of the fragrance. He made a green, woody and sweet musk. The outcome is the classy and elegant Parisian Musc as we know it today.

One of the many things I enjoy with Matiere is the names of the fragrances. They’re not extremely extravagant, but they’re still playful and catchy. 

How do you come up with the fragrance names? 
It’s all about intuition to be honest. It also has to fit the fragrance of course. For example Crystal Saffron is a very clear saffron, not golden at all. We also wanted it to sound cool! In the end I often spend a lot of time on the name. I want them to sound open minded and international, not just French.

The line feels almost complete already, so how many fragrances will the final collection have?
Yes, we actually feel the same. There’s a sense of totality here, but I think there is still more to explore! I don’t like when you smell several scents from a brand and they all smell more or less the same. So I want the fragrances from Matiere to be unique and different from each other. We also don’t want too many fragrances, perhaps we’ll release one per year, and then we’ll see how long we’ll manage to stay alive. We have no reason to discontinue any fragrances at the moment, they’re all selling quite well. 

How long does it take you to create a fragrance, and when do you know that a fragrance is ready for release?
Radical Rose and French Flower took between 1000 and 2000 tries before I finally reached a result I was happy with. That’s about 1-2 years in total, because I can often do 5-10 tries in one day. Crystal Saffron on the other hand took only 10 tries, or 2 days. 

We don’t listen to too many opinions, we launch what we want and when we want. Usually we ask some people to wear the fragrance and see how the reactions are, in the street and at home. 

Are you considering releasing other product lines in the future?
We don’t want to put lots of products on the shelves, we want to launch bestsellers. And only when we are ready. If we have nothing we’re happy with, we won’t launch anything. In 2022 we launched 2 fragrances because the tuberose was finally ready. And like I said before, Crystal Saffron was faster to create than the others. 

“Radical Rose took almost two years to complete.”

However, we are launching a body product range this year. We’ll be extending into body lotion and so on. When you have different types of products from the same scent line, it makes the brand look richer. This also goes hand in hand with having our own boutiques.

What do you think about fragrance taste in different cultures and parts of the world?
It seems taste is changing all over the world right now. What we used to think people like in for example Japan is not true anymore, and what French people like to wear has changed a lot too. Having said that, I try to create fragrances that don’t feel too French, or too fashion. 

What ingredients do you prefer to work with?
I love rose petals. Radical Rose has the highest rose concentration in the world, something I set out to do from the start, because I wanted to see what it would be like. That’s why it’s so deep and rich. We own our own production and fields, of rose, tuberose and lavender. Thanks to this, we can control the whole process from seed to finished product. This is something that’s quite unheard of within the fragrance industry. 

Unfortunately, not all our ingredients are organic. Either because it is not available or because they don’t smell that great. But we are always trying to encourage producers of other ingredients to be more organic and eco-friendly. 

How about Oud Seven, will it ever be available outside of Harrods?
We get almost 2000 messages per day about Oud Seven. It’s an exclusive for Harrods, simply because it’s Harrods. At first we had Falcon Leather as a Harrods exclusive, and our brand was very, very small. This was fantastic for such a small brand, to have an exclusive release for Harrods! But then we wanted to do a wider release of the leather fragrance, because we like it so much and it was so popular. When we decided to do that, Harrods asked us to make a new exclusive. 

We are not planning on selling it outside of Harrods, and we don’t want to start making more exclusives for other stores or locations because then we might get stuck doing that instead of what we truly want to do. 

Do you work for other brands still? 
I work on scents for big mainstream designers, but not for any other niche brands. 

“Perhaps we’ll release one fragrance per year and see how long we manage to stay alive.”

What fragrances do you like to wear yourself?
On a normal day I will wear whatever I’m working on, to see how it feels. 

What’s the next fragrance to be released from Matiere Premiere?
I’m currently working on a vanilla, and the challenge is to create a vanilla that isn’t sweet. I did finish it once, a long time ago, but in the end I wasn’t happy with the result and now I’m reworking it from scratch. The plan is to release it in the fall this year (2023).

So, what do you guys think about the brand? Which fragrance is your favorite? I for one can’t wait to try this mysterious vanilla, so let’s hope it gets finished on time! Thanks to Skinlife for this wonderful opportunity to meet Aurelien and all the best of luck to Matiere Premiere with their future releases and endeavors. 

Cédric Meiffret and Aurelien Guichard from Matiere Premiere, at Skinlife in Lisbon.